Et in Arcadia Ego…

Jean Foillard Côte de Py - une goutte de Dieu

Jean Foillard Côte de Py – une goutte de Dieu

It is hard to believe, but July 13th will be my eighteenth wedding anniversary. I mean I can remember my parents’ twentieth! So how old does that make me feel? Well, forty five in a week to be exact.

But I digress. On our way back from aromantic honeymoon week of camping in the Auvergne (Mauritius was way out of  my budget at the time) Elodie and I stopped off in our long suffering 750 cc Fiat Panda in Morgon our way back to Paris.

It was my goal to pick up some Jean Foillard as a souvenir. And so, with a chicken roasting dans le four, Jerusalem artichokes, artichauts poivrades and parsnips in the skillet I thought I would give my last bottle of Morgon 2005 a try.

It was a bit of a risk, because who drinks nineteen year old Gamay, right? Well Jean Foillard’s Morgon Côte de Py is known for its ageability. It had thrown a healthy deposit, is of course unfiltered and takes on Burgundian characteristics with age.

It is quite an emotional bottle too, as the penultimate bottle we had drunk back in 2004 or 2005 with the friend who first introduced us back at Moët in 1993. Blondine sadly passed away in 2010, a terribly youthful victim of cancer. So with fond thoughts of Blondine and armed with my ah-so corkscrew I extracted the cork and transferred to a deeanter.

As I did so the most heavenly aromas hit my olfactory palate, deep red fruits, a tiny bit of red meat and a little earth. The colour was superb, a bright,  crystaline clear crimson. I put it in the bottom  of the wine fridge and left it to develop.

About an hour later, I rather felt I had made a mistake. The nose had become markedly muted, and the wine appeared hollow on the palette although there was still a tell-tale finish of Gamay fruit. Elodie was having nothing of it.

But as we ate, and the wine warmed up, it appeared to fill out again and regain some girth. If I am honest I will say to day that a nineteen year old Morgon, even one that is Côte de Py, old vines and Bio, is probably pushing it, but nevertheless, for a nineteen year old Gamay, Jean Foillard’s was in remarkably good shape.

In the cellar I now have 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011 and 2011. The 2009 drunk at Christmas is a bruiser, so although I will not be leaving them so long, they have plenty of life ahead.

About matthewhayesbrognon

Wine Merchant
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