The Lehman Brothers...architects of total meltdown

The Lehman Brothers…architects of total meltdown

Well, what a let down this was.

I have had a couple of bottles of 1967 Barbaresco from Gaja tucked away in the cellar for a few years now, and last night’s supper of pheasant, truffled polenta (albeit Burgundy truffled) and “le véritable” cresson de Flacey seemed like a fitting dish to serve it up with.

And what a disaster it was! Crystaline clear in the bottle, the Barbaresco’s cork disintegrated and refused to be extracted (an ah-so cork screw attempt ended with flotsam and dust all over my shirt). The minute the the bottle was poured it transformed into a sullen, muddy brown sludge. Oxidised and quite frankly repugnant, it was awful.

I pulled the second bottle hoping for an abberation, but, hélas, purtroppo, they were both just shot. Dead in the water and since a long time.

10091448tSo I poured the Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 2005 that was the follow up, and although undoubtedly fine and a mega serious wine, it’s like trying to discuss Descartes with a three year old child: inpenetrable. I think give it twenty years and it will start to show. For now, ferocious acidity, sterling tannins but an undoubtedly classy “matère première“.


Friday night’s dinner of pan-fried squid with chili and shallots, a platter of Fine de Claire oysters and herb crusted cod was delicious,  not least beacause it was washed down with a bottle of Lilbert La Perle Champagne, a 2004 Corton Charlemagne from Louis Latour (good though a tad short on length) and 2012 Tasmanian Chardonnay from The Wine.Society

A bottle of 1963 Cockburns saw off the cheese – with a stunning performance from Shopshire Blue and the return after a 25 year hiatus of Boulette d’Avesne


Happily, for the depth of my cellar, it is not too often that Emily and Ned come to town.

About matthewhayesbrognon

Wine Merchant
This entry was posted in VF - Pour encourager les autres. Bookmark the permalink.

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