Menu à la mode

You have to chuckle. Increasingly, earnest, no nonsense, modern foodie-ism likes to cut to the chase. Surely a brief list of a dish’s ingredients is a salient expression of a cook’s honest lack of pretension than a hackneyed reference to some French anachronism.

This said, earnest frugality can easily seep into pretence. Witness,

“As is the case at all of Danny Meyer’s restaurants, hospitality is on another level at Untitled. There are no tablecloths and no dress code. All the emphasis is on food and wine.

Ricotta, heirloom tomatoes, aged balsamic, grilled bread

Grilled bread by any other name would be, er, toast, and in terms of economy, it’s one word less.

Tomorrow’s breakfast? Black coffee, Marmite, grilled bread.

No croissants conjunctions (sic).

 

http://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-untitled-at-the-whitney-new-york-sep-2016

About matthewhayesbrognon

Wine Merchant
This entry was posted in VF - Pour encourager les autres and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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