If ever there was a salient argument against the mode for Natural Wines, it was this:
L’Ailleurs – Anne et Jean-François Ganevat
Last night I opened what was mercifully my only bottle. An outstanding candidate for the worst bottle of white wine, no I correct myself, the worst bottle of wine I have tasted this year.
Of course it’s cloudy, it’s unfiltered. That I could have handled – unfiltered lees do nobody any harm. But beyond this arguably aesthetic failing, it was also unbalanced, volatile and lacking in even the slightest charm. Bizarrely, I have actually tasted real battery acid. It is no worse than this. Malolactic fermentation would have done this wine no harm.
It tastes as though it is still in fermentation. It tastes as though finishing its fermentation will achieve nothing. And att 13°, in ferment as it were, it already tastes hot.
It just tastes all over the place, and no place.
I can sympathise with the goals of natural wine, but I fear you may have to roll over and accept reality; there are reasons that wine makers have developed, harnessed and managed the use of SO2. Without it, wines may be natural, but they are unstable. Personally, if I want to play roulette, I’ll go to a casino.
Natural wine: Don’t go there.
And it’s curious really, because Monsieur Ganevat’s Chardonnays and Savagnins, in his domaine bottlings, are fantastic.