Vitello Milanese and the Despair of Inevitability

milano_bagutta_fronte-fascetta-Jpeg

I was searching for a tip on Milanese eating for a friend when despair reached up and smacked me, straight across the face. The lovely, arcane and esoteric Bagutta is no more. It closed in June 2016, going the way of its erstwhile companion, Assassino.

bagutta

I only ate there once, in 2008, stumbling upon its unbecoming, uninviting door at the wrong end of Via Napoleone, and walking into a labyrinthine maze of rooms covered in picture frames and frescos that I would have honestly mistaken for Chagall.

bagutta_food

antipasti a gogo

It was in these same rooms each year that the Italy’s famous Bagutta literary prize was awarded. The antipasti table was something to behold, and hard to resist, so hard to resist that by the time the vitello milanese arrive or the bollo misto it was difficult to eat any more. This was no Michelin starred affair, but the waiters wore old school white and black and were friendly and forgiving.

 

But now it’s gone the way of Druot in Paris with only Chartier up-holding the flame…and even then the food at Bagutta was way better. Of course it was, it was Italian.

And all that change for what? For another superfluous cashmere sweater shop. It’s a travesty, and a tragedy. I have to go and see L’Ami Louis before that crumbles into memory too. One reason less to visit Milan now. Purtroppo.

Huffington post article on Milan’s trattorias in 2015.

2015-02-27-baguttamural

Cashmere sweaters for God’s sake…

About matthewhayesbrognon

Wine Merchant
This entry was posted in VF - Pour encourager les autres. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s