Last night a perfectly preserved bottle of Delon’s (Leoville Las Cases et al) 2003 Chateau Potensac. Ce n’est pas un grand vin bien sûr, but a reliable Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel from the Haut Médoc.
I hadn’t had a bottle for a couple of years, and straight out of the cellar at 15° the immediate impression was of ripe freshness. Medium garnet in colour, it is beginning to show its age at the rim. There is rich blackcurrant fruit but without a doubt the wine is slipping into fruit compôte and stewed prunes. Slipping is my term only, as lots of people like that in a fourteen year old Bordeaux but I have never been a fan…it’s not a measure of greatness.in my mind.
I fear this may be the way of 2003’s in general; such a hot year, it seems inevitable that the overly ripe, hot and mature fruit will fudge into sur maturité and jam. Ce n’est pas ma tasse de thé…I prefer things a little fresher, and grander, when all is said and done.