Summer Fruit…Cold Comfort


The last two weeks have unremittingly hot…although a colder and wet patch has arrived to refresh the parched lawn and, no doubt, vines.

Rioja excepted, Vina Tondonia 2004 Reserva oblige, I seem to be overwhelmed by a current, or is that currant, desire for fruit. I have been downing bottles of Jean Foillard’s 2015 Morgon Côte de Py and Corcelotte cuvées with unusual speed and an insatiable thirst. A drive down to Beaune yesterday morning saw an unexpected and sudden swerve to the door of my erstwhile employers, Caveau de la Tour for a dozen bottles of 2014 Mauro.

Like Foillard, I have been drinking this for twenty years now and it is unfailingly good; although , like the 2015 Foillard, abusively young. Perhaps it’s the rising sap in the vines, their energy surging upwards in the heat towards the breaking buds, but I feel an almost carnivorous desire for fruit.

The autumn and winter bring on a calmer desire for substance and resolve. Sometimes equally bold wines, but with a more nuanced, affirmed character, defined and delineated by age. But for now, it’s all about the fruit, dummy.



About matthewhayesbrognon

Wine Merchant
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